This week, I’m writing a relatively short review of a compact restaurant in Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood. I must admit I was drawn to the place because of a TV program, but I’m happy to report that this place lives up to the hype.

One show I enjoy watching is “Top Chef” on Bravo. A few seasons ago, the program was set in Portland, Oregon, and one of its contestants, Shota Nakajima, created amazing Japanese-inspired food. He ended up in the top three but lost to another chef who forfeited the title because of ethical violations. Nakajima had just closed his restaurant in Seattle during the COVID-19 pandemic, so having this recognition helped him establish another, Taku.

Taking inspiration from Japanese restaurants specializing in one dish, Nakajima focused on karaage, or fried chicken, a specialty of Osaka. Taku's menu offers a few other chicken dishes like teriyaki rice bowls, oyakodon (a chicken and egg rice bowl and a staple in my cooking repertoire) and sandwiches, as well as sides, small plates, beverages and cocktails. But the focus is on the karaage. 

Japanese fried chicken and more

Made gluten-free with rice flour instead of wheat, the karaage comes in substantial chunks of chicken thigh, which makes it juicy, flavorful and not like leathery fast-food chicken fingers.  It gets its crispiness from double frying. There are two ways to order: dry, with salt and pepper, curry or furikake (a salty Japanese seasoning), and wet, with teriyaki, spicy teriyaki and the piquant Shota sauce. Seven sauces are available for dipping – we chose a citrusy yuzu ketchup, nori ranch and yum-yum sauce (a tangy, creamy dressing with spices)

You can order the karaage on its own, in a combo with furikake-topped fries, or a giant portion called a F*ck It Bucket. That cheekily named option holds two pounds of chicken with one pound of furikake fries in a large carton that looks like the famous KFC bucket of fried chicken. But I like Taku’s name better. JRS and I also ordered fried chili tofu, made irresistible with chili, green onion, and fried garlic sauce. She found it too spicy – it was just right for me.

The atmosphere

Taku is just east of downtown Seattle. It’s an eclectic neighborhood with a diverse selection of restaurants. While we took a ride share, it appeared that there wasn’t much street parking. There are two parking garages within a block, but I don’t know how easy it is to park there or how much they are. A caveat: Taku doesn’t take reservations, and no one under 21 is allowed. So, time your visit and don’t bring the kids (unless they’re of age).

Once inside, you’ll see why their tagline is “welcoming all who enjoy good vibes, anime and great f-ing chicken!” The walls are completely covered with anime characters, most (or all) of which my kids could probably identify. There aren’t many tables, probably only about 20 maximum. A central L-shaped bar is next to the cooking area so diners can see their prepared meals.  Overall, the environment contributes to the casual and fun experience.

Nakajima also owns and runs Kobo, a pizzeria next door to Taku. Perhaps we can come here on our next visit to Seattle.