Like many areas of the country, food halls seemed to be everywhere in Denver for the last few years. Here in Golden, we had four at one point, but no longer. One of them, Tributary, has permanently closed, and Morris & Mae shut down its individual stands. Only Golden Mill has maintained its hall and is thriving. The fourth, Atomic Cowboy, is not technically a food hall – it simply offers food from two different menus in a sit-down place.

I’m unsure if this indicates the general slowdown in the food hall model or Golden’s prolonged difficulty keeping food businesses going, even after the COVID-19 pandemic. Or it could be that the places themselves haven’t been a large enough draw.

This week’s short post updates Morris & Mae and Golden Mill and offers my take on whether they are still worth visiting. I’ll leave Atomic Cowboy for a future post, as it has only been open for less than a year, although it seems to be doing well.

Morris & Mae

This establishment, located on the first floor of an apartment complex, has not gone out of business. It is still in the same location, just off Interstate 70. A few months ago, they temporarily shut down and became a bar and restaurant with a single focus of being a “gathering place.” I am not sure how this will go because of its tucked-away location.

Before visiting, I wasn’t enthusiastic about its new food offerings. While there are some appealing options for breakfast, including sandwiches, burritos, bowls and avocado toast, their menu for the rest of the day is spare, which includes tacos, tapas, sandwiches and salads.  I was thinking that it was just accompaniments for their slate of cocktails. These include classics like an old-fashioned martini and a margarita and seasonal varieties like aspens in autumn. But I was willing to keep an open mind about it all.

JRS went with me to M&M, where we tried a few dishes and the hibiscus peaks, a cocktail with mezcal, hibiscus, lime juice, soda, chamoy (a Mexican pickled fruit condiment) and smoked salt. Surprisingly, the food was tasty, especially my birria tacos and patatas bravas. JRS ordered her favorite side, sweet potato tots, which were just the right amount of crispy and tender. I was pleased with this small re-introduction to the eatery, and I hope they continue to stay here for the long term.

Golden Mill

This two-story establishment downtown offers things that Morris & Mae doesn’t, but that’s just because of where they are. Golden Mill’s building is right on Clear Creek, and its indoor/outdoor lend to scenic views of both Table Mountain and the Rockies foothills. There are the self-serve taps that pour mostly beer but also have cocktails. Also, there are four different food places, plus an ice cream stand.

Nearly every time I go to Golden Mill – about a half-dozen times – I enjoy the atmosphere. It’s wonderful to bask in the sun with a cool drink and take in the scenery and people-watching. But the food is just adequate. Of the four regular food stands, I like Rolling Smoke BBQ the best, then Tacos al Chile, then Republik of Chiken. I haven’t tried Sushi Sora yet, but I haven’t enjoyed many sushi places here in Denver, so unfortunately, I have that built-in bias. I will try it at some point, though.

I like Rolling Smoke, even though I’m not a huge barbecue fan. But I appreciate their southern-style cooking method and love their brisket, smoked mac and cheese, smoked collard greens and jalapeno cheddar cornbread. Another great choice is BBQ nachos with pork, chicken, or brisket (for slightly more). The street-style tacos at Tacos al Chile are also worth choosing, especially if you get them with birria or pescado (beer-battered cod). Try their Tijuana chili dog or Ensenada dog, which is like a Sonora dog.