I’ve been to Seattle about seven or eight times now, and for half of those visits, we’ve stayed in the western part of the city. It’s a peninsula wholly separated from the rest of the busy downtown and the ever-increasingly congested surrounding area. But here’s the thing – there aren’t any hotels here.
That’s right, if you want to stay in West Seattle, you’ll have to find a rental or one of a handful of bed-and-breakfast inns. If you aren’t next door to one of the many restaurants and bars along Alki Avenue, the road that skirts the shoreline, it’s quiet, especially if you stay in a residential neighborhood and live like a local. And that is why we like it and have repeatedly stayed here.
When my sister-in-law and her family lived near Woodinville, northeast of the city, it was a wonderful place to stay. Sometimes, we would get a rental in Belltown, the neighborhood on the waterfront near Pike Place Market, which made for a convenient location. But the noisiness from the traffic and early morning trains that would roll by our windows ruled being here again.
Even now, with my sister-in-law moving away and our only area friend living in Tacoma, we still prefer to come to this relatively quiet part of Seattle, Alki Beach. I wrote about it four years ago, but here is an update.
Staying at Alki Beach
This area is on the northern edge of the West Seattle peninsula. The only ways to get from downtown to Alki are to drive across a bridge over the Duwamish Waterway and past the towers and docks of the commercial port or take the water taxi. What makes Alki unique is, as I’ve mentioned before, the lack of hotels. Visitors will have to find an inn or a short-term rental, which is what we’ve done each time we’ve been here.
On our first stay, we were in a rambling home with a killer view of downtown Seattle. Our next place was a smaller craftsman home just a block from the water. The third was a more modern but spacious apartment, and our last was a just enough cottage for JRS and me. So, if you don’t mind a rental, you’ll likely enjoy staying in Alki because you’ll be rewarded with a quieter, more laid-back environment and feel like you truly live as the locals do.
Dining options
Alki Beach and West Seattle generally offer a variety of restaurants from which to choose. But honestly, I have only dined at one seafood place, Duke’s, with multiple locations around town and fantastic chowders. But the rest of their adequate fare doesn’t justify the inflated prices. We’ve had more of our meals out closer to downtown or made them in the kitchen of our rentals.
I have heard several places in Alki are worth visiting, and all are along a half-mile stretch. Topping the list is Salty’s, another high-end seafood establishment on the Seattle side of the peninsula, with nearly the same view we enjoyed in that first rental. Another is Alki Beach Café, which I walked past a few times and wished I could have ordered one of their massive breakfast plates. Something that’s slightly more fitting with the neighborhood vibe is Harry’s Beach House, with a good selection of seafood, small plates, and cocktails.
Outdoor activities
My absolute favorite place here for running and walking is Alki Trail, a paved path that’s nearly 4½ miles and doesn’t lack incredible views. There are separate areas for bikers and pedestrians, which makes for a better experience. The trail goes from the peninsula's eastern side, starting near the West Seattle Bridge and ending at the western side in a residential neighborhood.
But while you’re getting some exercise here, you’ll witness others participating in all manner of seaside outdoor sports. During the summer, beach volleyball games occur along the sandy beach. Kayakers and stand-up paddleboarders glide along the primarily calm water while heartier individuals swim in the not-so-temperate waters of Puget Sound.
The water taxi
One of the best things about staying in Alki Beach is the option of taking the King County Water Taxi. A commuter boat takes passengers across Elliott Bay from Seacrest Park to the ferry docks near downtown Seattle. It provides a convenient way to get around the town center without worrying about the often-exorbitant parking, which we had to do when JRS and I went to the Mariners-Giants game. It’s about a 20-minute walk from the dock to T-Mobile Park and Lumen Field.
The roundtrip fare is $11.50 on the weekends and $10 on the weekdays. The water taxi also goes to Vashon Island to the southwest, where the only access is by ferry.
